Another February Onsen Trip

One cold February day, we had planned to go to nearby Miyajima Island to eat oysters and sightsee, but the weather was a little too cold and rainy to enjoy the outdoors, so we decided a nice warm onsen would be perfect! Along with Jim and Ingrid, we drove along the Nishiki River. It’s a beautiful drive, even on a cloudy day and it was interesting to see how the road repairs were coming along. This highway was badly damaged in last summer’s typhoons. The road runs along the banks – high above the Nishiki River and it’s difficult to imagine that the water came up 20 to 30 feet and destroyed the road. But it did. In some places, the road actually is built out and cantilevers over the river. The last time we tried to navigate this highway (a very narrow two-lane at best!), I chickened out, and we turned and took a drive inland, and if you’ve been keeping up with our blog, you know we discovered a beautiful mini-golf course, several bridges and another dam that day.

So on this day, the road, although not finished, was much more navigable, so off we went and toward Nishiki Town. Instead of bathing at the Nishiki Green Palace hotel, this time we decided to try another onsen. This one was up a very steep, narrow road. There was an old lady walking up and we offered her a ride, but she declined. By the time we got to the top, got our stuff out of the car and parked, she was headed into the same building we were -- probably for her daily bath.

While talking to Larry recently, I realized that more detail may be required about onsens. They are one of the most wonderful things about Japan, especially in winter! We know several people who are squeamish about being naked in front of strangers and have never tried them, but they are missing something really special. Of course, the men bathe with men and the women with women. I think the first time I went, I felt a little self-conscious, but that soon disappeared. As I’ve often said, after raising 4 children, I really have very little modesty left anyway, so getting naked in front of women just isn’t a problem for me. Also, I don’t really worry about what other people think about my body. It is what it is – warts and all! And lastly, I don’t plan to see any of these folks again. The Japanese culture just doesn’t seem to be focused on their bodies as we Americans are, and I’ve never been aware that they are checking me out any more than I would be checking them out. We’re just all there to wash, soak and relax. When we first entered this onsen building there was an entry hall where we removed our shoes, and built-in cubbies in which to leave them. Then we proceeded to a window where we paid 500 yen each to bathe. This is a little less than $5 – a pretty good deal. Then we walked through a gift and goody shop, and a tearoom area that looked out onto a beautiful garden. There was an old stone fireplace (with a clean and efficient electric heater going) with log seating all around. We would check this out later, but for now, on we went toward the bathing rooms. (Remember, in Japan if you have to potty, you ask for “toilet – toire” not bathroom. A bathroom is where you bathe.) The men went one way (the men’s area usually has a blue sign), and we went the other (the red sign). When we entered the women’s bath, there were potty stalls, and then into a large dressing area with mirrors, sinks, a hairdryer installed on the wall, benches, and lockers for our clothes. We undressed here, left our clothes in another cubby, and then entered through the sliding glass doors into the actual bathing area. This was a larger room with open showers built around two sides. You pull up a short plastic stool, sit down and completely wash your body with soap that is provided. There are drains built into the tile floor. After washing and rinsing, you then step into the very hot bath. I noticed some of the Japanese women would scoop up a bowlful of the hot water and pour it over themselves before they entered. The water is all the way up to the top of the pool area and flowing onto the floor, making a beautiful, soothing sound. This onsen only had one large pool, maybe 15 by 15, all granite with seats built in. There are no jets like a hot tub, just, very hot water. You soak for a few minutes, and feel the tension and cold leaving your body. The water does not have chlorine, so you skin feels very silky and smooth when you leave. Most of the onsens in Japan are natural hot water springs, but some are heated. I don’t know which this was. Usually, I get overheated after a few minutes and have to either go outside to another bath area to cool off, or splash in the cold water pool. This small onsen had neither, but there must have been good ventilation, for there was not a lot of steam in the room. Also, because it was such a cold day, we were chilled before we went in, so we were able to stay a little longer. After we finished soaking, we again went back to the bathing area, washed and then dried off. Then back to the dressing room area for our clothes. After dressing, we met up with the men in the tearoom area and picked out some interesting snacks and had hot green tea, while looking out onto the peaceful garden. We were all very relaxed and cozy. I would love to be able to do this every day, as the Japanese do. Most homes have a smaller version of this bath arrangement, so they soak every evening before retiring. This is the best thing about winter in Japan!