JAPAN ADVENTURE

Welcome to Margie & Stan's Japan Adventure - our photo blog while living on MCAS Iwakuni in beautiful Yamaguchi Prefecture in Western Japan from 8/2004 to present. My photo above is the famous Kintai Bridge right here in Iwakuni. Be sure to check out Blog Archive (below left) for highlights of our travels. And leave us a comment - we'd love to hear from you! Click on photos to enlarge.
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Thursday, February 24, 2005


Valentine's Day Party next door. I took a picture of the ladies because they are prettier than the guys. Posted by Hello

More February Outings

Well, we decided not to attend the Myiajima Island Oyster Festival as planned. We were told it would be extremely crowded – on the train, on the ferry, and at the festival, so we decided to wait to go another time. The weather has turned off cold again (after a teasing warm spell) so it’s not too much fun to be out in the icy wind right now.

Instead, and in honor of George Washington, we joined Stan’s friend, Ikue (who works at the school library) and several other teachers & their families for some points of interest around Hiroshima. Lisa Mauldin, the school nurse, and her son Michael and daughter Jane rode up with us. They are all delightful and we had a fun trip. We met up with the others at the Hiroshima Japan Mint, one of only three in Japan. The Hiroshima mint makes only coins. It was fascinating, and we learned lots of Japanese history. For instance, it is against the law to pay for something using more than 20 of the same denomination coin. Japan makes coins in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500 yen. (You simply move the decimal over 2 places to the left to see their approximate US equivalent, i.e., 100 yen = $1.) The coins are all really beautiful – very artistic – and especially designed to be difficult to counterfeit, and for ease in identification by feel. Japan once considered putting the likeness of the Emperor on their coins, as other countries do with their leaders, but since the Emperor was considered a god, they decided it would be disrespectful because people would be touching his portrait. Instead, they have flowers on one side, and the number denomination on the reverse in English and Japanese. This mint also makes official decoration badges and award medals of honor. In the museum, there is a large automated machine into which you can insert a coin, and it will be certified to be genuine. As you watch, it is weighed (with water), measured, and its metal content tested. When finished, your coin is returned with a printed certificate of authenticity.

After visiting the mint, we had an authentic Japanese lunch, which was delicious and beautifully served on many different patterns of exquisite bone china, both Japanese and English. Ikue ordered for us, and then told us what was in each dish as it arrived. First, of course, we received the hot cloth with which to wash our hands. Then we were served an appetizer dish with thin fried white fish strips, steamed rape plant (canola) mixed with dressing like a small salad, and small cubes of potatoes with sea urchin sauce, which looked like large pieces of corn or hominy). The second course was a small cup of thin clam chowder with several tiny chopped vegetables, one of which was burdock, kind of like rutabaga. The next course was spinach and shrimp quiche, with very thin flaky crust (more like phyllo dough); then hot egg custard (not sweet) with chunks of Portobello mushroom. The main course was rice, a large grilled sardine (whole), assorted pickles, red miso soup (fish base with tofu), and steamed spinach. Presentation is very important in Japan. Ikue says “We eat with our eyes” so it was very beautiful, as well as delicious. Of course we were also served hot green tea throughout the meal. Then we were served coffee and homemade strawberry ice cream for dessert. The coffee is usually very strong and just a few sips in little demitasse cups, served with a pitcher of real cream. There are never seconds on coffee, for it is very expensive in Japan. Now, this may sound like a lot of food, but Japanese dishes and portions are very small – most servings are only 2-3 bites. There is always a separate dish or bowl for each item served and usually, it has a saucer underneath, sometimes with a lace paper doily in between. Ikue was counting the dishes as we were served, and she counted over 20 before losing count. With coffee and ice cream, you are given a small silver spoon, and with custard and soups you get a small, fat china spoon, as well as chopsticks used for eating everything else. One more interesting point. The bathroom (of course I have to report on this!) was tiny and unisex, but did have a heated seat (I’m always so relieved when I don’t have to squat . . .). The sink was a hi-tech bowl on top of a triangle-shaped pillar stuck in a corner – very ultra-modern and space conservative. The faucet was automated, and not only did you get water (cold, of course!) when you placed your hands under it, you also got a small light that went off and on with the water.

Our last stop was a soy sauce factory. I never knew there were so many varieties of soy sauce! This factory makes 5 different varieties, but there are many more. Each is used for a special purpose, and has a little different flavoring and taste. We first viewed a movie (all in Japanese) then donned our hairnets and actually toured the factory where the soy sauce is mixed and bottled. Soy sauce is made by mixing steamed soy beans with roasted wheat, and a special seed starter which grows to form a dry mash called koji, and salt. It takes 6 months to make and ferment the finished product. Something else we didn’t know: it’s always a good idea to use soy sauce on raw sushi and sashimi. The amino acids in the soy sauce “clean up” any bacteria that might be in the fish. After touring the factory, we went to the gift shop and were served hot green tea and cubes of tofu that we could dip into different flavors of soy sauce. (You may know that tofu – which is packed with protein – has practically no taste of its own.) It was hard to make up our minds which one we liked best, so we bought a variety pack of all 5 flavors. We also shared a soy sauce ice cream cone. I thought it would be yucky, but it was quite delicious – an interesting combination of sweet and salty. Japanese ice cream is not too sweet, and it’s creamy like custard.

It snowed off and on all day in Hiroshima as the sun kept peeking in and out of the clouds – beautiful big fluffy flakes that floated around, but melted when they hit the ground. As we drove back home to Iwakuni, we reflected on what an interesting, delicious, and educational day we’d had, and how fortunate we are to have a friend like Ikue, who is so willing to share her beautiful country with us.

Inside the mint grounds. Coin mint, not plant mint. Posted by Hello

Lisa, Michael, and Jane. Lisa is Jo's friend. Posted by Hello

Comparing bags of coins to see which is heaviest. The bag of 100 yen coins won. It contained 50000 yen, about $500. Posted by Hello

Me and pictures of the coin making process. Sorry, but this is as close as I can get you to the coin making and still retain my freedom. Posted by Hello

Two retired coin stampers. Posted by Hello

Money, money, money as far as the eye can see. Actually the eye is the only thing that is supposed to see this stuff. Our guide saw me take this and I was quickly told not to take pictures of the ingots or the coin making process. Oops . . . Posted by Hello

Vanna Margie in front of lots of money. Posted by Hello

Hiroshima Mint Posted by Hello

Our group at the mint. Lots of coin here. Posted by Hello

We are listening to the a teacher whom we thought was talking about soy sauce. We really need to learn more Japanese. Posted by Hello

Because we did not understand Japnese, we all become Amish that day. Apparently this was a requirement to tour the soy sauce factory. Actually, we are wearing hair nets. O brother where art thou. Posted by Hello

Our soy sauce guide Posted by Hello

Here is the Amish congregation. Posted by Hello

Soy mixing vats Posted by Hello

Soy Sauce as far as the eye can see. And this is as far as your eye can see. Posted by Hello

Soy tasting party. Did you notice how effectively I blocked out the guy who doesn't like soy sauce? Posted by Hello

Soy talk. Posted by Hello

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

February in Japan -- (Happy Birthday Michael & Craig)

February brings the promise of Spring, as setsubun, the last day of winter on the lunar calendar, occurs on February 3. Celebrated as a Buddhist festival, bean-throwing (mameki) seeks to invite good luck in and drive out devils, called oni. Oni are often depicted as ugly, red-faced, horned beings, the bringers of evil. A family member dons a devil mask and other family members throw beans at him or her – usually outside the home toward the Southwest, and inside, while shouting, “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi!” (Bad luck out – good luck in!”)

So, just to be on the safe side, and honoring the ancient traditions of our adopted home country, we gathered at Ingrid & Jim’s just after dark the evening of February 3. Ingrid had a large bowl of dried soy beans for us to throw (and we ate a few as well). We took turns playing the part of the devil (attempting to suppress our personal comments) and the beans began to fly! Of course, we had already been celebrating with a glass or two of sake – for medicinal purposes only – and to ward off the cool evening. As we tossed the beans off their 5th floor balcony, there were fortunately no protests from the sidewalk below. Windley was there also (his wife Vicky was out of town) and we threw some beans toward his balcony, which seemed really funny at the time, although I can’t remember why now. As we threw the good luck beans into Ingrid’s living room, their cat Tommy, was intrigued with “something” landing all over the rug. (Indoor cats are easily spooked . . .) Ingrid teaches English in the evenings, so when her student arrived, we had her throw beans again just to be sure she got some of our good luck. She told us that her father always wore the mask & played the part of the devil in their house. She also brought a large roll of homemade sushi, which we sliced and served. It was delicious and she told us that it was her first time to share in making this traditional dish with her mother and grandmother earlier that day. We sat around the table telling stories – especially Stan, so I’m sure Ingrid had to do some explaining to her student after we left (hmm – lost in translation . . .)

Valentine’s Day is coming up soon and the Japanese also celebrate it, but with a twist. Women give chocolates or gifts to men, either out of a sense of duty or to express feelings. The bigger the gift, the more intense the feelings. Men typically do not reciprocate until mid-March, when white chocolates are given in return.

This weekend we’re going to the Miyajima Island oyster festival, so watch for an update. The last time we were there with Larry, Lisa & Andy, we ate some really yummy oysters cooked in their shells on an open hibachi. I plan to eat lots more . . .

Some of the preceding info was adapted from the 2/05 Iwakuni MCCS Preview Magazine article by Jamie Wurdinger.

Snow is on the ground and very pretty, but no we did not get a snow day from school. Posted by Hello

Margei wearing the devil mask. There are many comments that spring to mind here, but I have the good sense not to list any of them. Well, all right, just one. "Devil with the blue dress, blue dress on." Posted by Hello

Contented bean throwers. Now for a math problem: there are three bottles of saki in this picture. How many bottles of saki can you find in the next picture? Better to throw the beans than..what was it Ms Fossett used to say? "Beans, beans, good for your heart..." Posted by Hello

Contented bean throwers. The huge bottle of sake on the table may have something to do with the contentment. Posted by Hello

Tommy, Ingrid's cat, decides to join the party. Posted by Hello

Tommy, Ingrid's cat, wearing his party hat. Posted by Hello

Ingrid's English student Yukari - learning not nationality - wearing the devil mask. Posted by Hello