OUR FIRST ONSEN

12/26/04 (Happy Birthday Heather!) Stan and I took a drive north of Iwakuni today, into the mountains. Our road wound along the river all the way so it was a beautiful drive. The river water is extremely clean and clear with some small rapids. After about a half hour, we were hungry for lunch, but we didn’t see any restaurants. The area we were driving in was getting more and more rural. Suddenly, there was a roadside stop with at least 15 vending machines all lined up in a row, under a covered patio. We stopped the car and got out, and there was soft music playing. Many of the machines had the usual hot & cold drinks: several types of tea, coffee, water, energy drinks, fruit drinks. There were several vending machines for food – the pictures showed what was available: fried rice, French fries, fish balls, fish cakes, soba (noodle entrees). There were also machines for ice cream & other frozen desserts. Of course, there were the usual junk foods available – pastries, donuts, cookies. But, we were most intrigued with how they could offer hot food entrees -- how fresh would they be? By now we were starving, so we both decided to try the fried rice, which was 450 yen (around $4.50). We dropped in the appropriate coins, and after some clicking and flashing of lights, there began a digital countdown on the small screen of the machine: 90, 89, 88, etc. We realized that our food was probably frozen, and was being microwaved inside the machine! When the countdown got to 0, a small cardboard package with a picture of fried rice on the outside dropped down into the dispenser. Upon opening the package, I saw that it contained a small plastic wrapped spoon, and a very generous steaming serving under a plastic sheet that you peeled back. It was delicious and had lots of small bits of pork and egg. We also each got a latte coffee (have yet to find decaf in these machines in Japan & I carry my own sweetener) and we were on our way. The drink machines are everywhere in Japan – usually one or two together along the narrow sidewalks and at least one in every block – no matter where you are. Many people ride up on their bikes, insert the proper coins, get their drinks & they’re gone. It just fascinates me that hot & cold are both in the same machine – hot is marked in red & cold in blue. One of the most unusual drinks is a hot corn drink that we’ve yet to try, at least we assume it’s corn, since there is a picture of an ear of corn on the can. (Those of you who have suffered through Stan’s baby food jar joke, know that in Japan, what’s in a container is usually drawn on the outside. If you haven't heard this one, email him.)

Now, keep in mind that we’re on a highway, but it is two-lane and very narrow with little or no shoulder. We’re actually lucky that it’s two-lane – many are not. On my side (! ! !), straight down from the edge of the road is the river anywhere from 10-30 feet below us. Hard to believe that this small river actually flooded it’s banks during the last typhoon season. The view was breathtaking, but I tended to lean toward Stan’s side of the car when he “pulled over” for me to take pictures.

Further along the way, we encountered road construction, where one lane was closed and the cars had to wait to travel one side a time. The really cool thing about this was that there was no flagman – it was all automated! There was a red traffic light where we stopped, and a large digital timer counting down. When it got down to 0, the light turned green, and it was our turn to go. How cool is that!

The maximum speed on this highway is 50 km/p/h, which is only 31 mph, which I have decided is a great way to see the countryside, but it take a while to drive anywhere. So, about 45km from Iwakuni, in a little village along the river, we saw a place that looked like it might be a resort. This area in the mountains is known for hot springs. I saw a sign that showed a large circle with red squiggley lines coming out of the top – a hot tub, maybe? So we took a chance for another adventure!

We went in and found out we were in the Nishiki Green Palace, and we asked the attendant on duty, “Onsen?” She did not speak any English, but we managed to communicate that we wanted to bathe. The price for each of us would be 400 yen (around $4) and for 200 more, we each got a VERY small thin towel, more like a dish towel. OK. She pointed us down a long hallway and we were on our way, hoping we could figure out what to do. At the end of the hallway, we came to an area where there were several pairs of shoes, and a step up onto a beautiful wood floor and a door to the left (Women) and a door to the right (Men). Now, we had read a little about onsens, so we knew that after we each went into the appropriate room, we had to get naked (men & women are separate), then we would have to wash with soap first, and rinse off before entering the spa & wash again when we got out. We discussed this briefly, and then said we would meet in the lobby when we were finished. The day had been cold with clouds on and off, and I had gotten so cold, getting out of the car to take pictures, so I was really looking forward to the warm water!

So, we removed our shoes, and each stepped into the appropriate door. For obvious reasons, I did not take any pictures here. When I got inside, there was a bank of sinks on one side, a “hair & body dryer” that you stand under to dry off, and there were cubbies and small laundry baskets on the facing wall. The end wall was a large frosted glass sliding door the entire width of the room, so I assumed the spa was in there. No one else was there, so I hesitated, since I didn’t know exactly what to do next. I knew I had to bathe first, but all I saw were sinks & Kleenex, and that would NOT work for me! The room was cool, but I got naked, put all my stuff in a basket and placed it into a cubby, took a deep breath, and opened the frosted glass doors, hoping for the best. The room was large and beautiful and steaming – completely tiled in round cobalt blue tiles on the floor & walls and down into both spas that were below floor level. One was round and the other one was a huge rectangle – the width of the entire room with a glass wall facing out to a private garden. This one had a handrail, so I decided it was the one I would bathe in. There was a grouping of small plastic stools & plastic bowls near the door, but I wasn’t sure what to do with them. On the right wall and left walls, there were several open shower and tub spigots with bottles of body wash & shampoo by each. I turned on a low shower, got wet, soaped up and rinsed off. I was wondering where all this water would go on the tile floor, but then I saw that there was a small tiled “ditch” in the floor that allowed all the soapy water to drain down toward the bigger spa, but then into a drain on either end. I walked over and stepped into the steaming spa and it was heavenly! These onsens are said to be natural hot water springs that come from deep inside the earth, and are full of minerals and healing powers to cure whatever ails you. At one end of the spa there was a stacked marble waterfall with hot water running in one side and another small waterfall of cool water coming in. After a few minutes of complete relaxation, I finally got warm – too warm, so I went over and splashed cool water on me to cool off a little, which helped, and I was able to stay in a few more minutes. After a little while, several more women came in. All were older (which made me feel better than if they were some of the younger women with tiny perky bodies!) and each bowed and nodded to me as she came in. As I discretely watched, I soon learned what the stools and small bowls were for. Here’s what I was supposed to have done: set the stool and bowl in front of one of the spigots, run warm water into the bowl, plop down onto the low stool, and use the “towel” to wash with from the bowl between your feet. So at least no one saw me do it wrong. After soaking, you bathe with soap again & wash your hair (if you choose – I chose not to), so at least I had another chance to do it right this time. After most of the women left, I washed again & went back into the first room soaking wet. This was challenging, as it was much a much cooler room, and my “towel” was now wet from washing. The body dryer was not really warm air, but it did get me dry and I dressed quickly. Japanese baths are very warm – like a hot tub, and I noticed my skin was bright pink! What a great experience! After I met Stan in the lobby, we walked through the gift shop, bought a couple of souvenirs of our “first onsen.” I walked outside and breathed in the cold air – feeling that I would never be cold or stressed again!

On the way back we decided to stop at a restaurant with beautiful gardens, lots of lights and known locally as the “chicken shack.” It neither specializes only in chicken, nor is it a shack, so I don’t know why the name. The real name is Sanzoku. The restaurant building is magnificent and appears to be several hundred years old with heavy wood timbers & Samurai costumes decorating the high walls. There is also a huge polished wood sculpture (which was once a giant tree) against one wall. Stan had been there earlier, so you may find more pictures posted in August or September archives. We had the option of eating outside, which I couldn’t imagine anyone would want to do since it was so cold. However, there were lots of people doing this, and I soon found out that underneath the low tables that are covered with a large quilt, there is a small charcoal heater to keep you warm. We opted for inside however, and were ushered to a quiet corner where we sat on cushions at a traditional Japanese low table, where we were immediately brought hot green tea and water. We had Gyoza (similar to Chinese wonton) for an appetizer and Stan had Yakitori (meat on a stick), but it wasn’t the small strips that I expected – it was a quarter of a chicken speared with a large strip of bamboo. We shared an entrée of very thin sliced raw beef that you dip into a delicious sauce, and then cook yourself on a small hibachi in the center of the table. I had a coleslaw salad (which is yummy with ginger dressing) and two HUGE tempura shrimp that were amazingly filling.

After dinner, we walked around the gardens, where there were beautiful water features, lights, flowers and lots of interesting things for sale in the shops. They also had many gas heaters with blowers for staying warm. These were hidden under beautiful sculptures, so you did not see what they were – just the glorious heat! The restrooms here were not labeled in English, but we waited, and soon enough, a woman walked into one, so I followed her & Stan went in the other one. I found the one “Western toire” and was thrilled to find another heated seat. All in all it was just another perfect day in Paradise . . .